If you’re servicing your Aprilia, now’s the chance to upgrade your spark plugs to longer-lasting Iridium ones that will save you money in the long run.
But if you just want to stick with standard copper plugs, that’s fine too.
Our chart below lists the fitments for almost all of the Aprilias produced in the past decade.
Table of Contents
Aprilia Spark Plug Fitment Chart
Manufacturer | Model | Standard Plug | Iridium Plug | Electrode Gap |
---|---|---|---|---|
APRILIA | 6.35 TUAREG WIND | NGK D8EA | NGK DR8EIX | 0.5 MM |
APRILIA | AF1-125 FUTURA | NGK B10EG | NGK BR10EIX | 0.5 MM |
APRILIA | AF1-125 REPLICA | NGK B10EG | 0.5-0.6 MM | |
APRILIA | AMICO 50 GL | NGK BR7HS | NGK BR7HIX | 0.6 MM |
APRILIA | AMICO 50 LX | NGK BR7HS | NGK BR7HIX | 0.6 MM |
APRILIA | AREA 51 (2-Stroke-Oil) | NGK BR8HS | NGK BR8HIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | ATLANTIC 125 | NGK CR8EB | ||
APRILIA | ATLANTIC 200 | NGK CR8EB | NGK CR8EIX | 0.8 MM |
APRILIA | ATLANTIC 250 | NGK CR8EB | 0.7-0.8 MM | |
APRILIA | ATLANTIC 250 I.E. | NGK PMR8B | 0.7 MM | |
APRILIA | ATLANTIC 300 I.E. | NGK CR8EKB | 0.7-0.8 MM | |
APRILIA | ATLANTIC 500 | NGK CR7EKB | 0.7-0.8 MM | |
APRILIA | ATLANTIC 500 SPRINT | NGK CR7EKB | 0.7-0.8 MM | |
APRILIA | CAPONORD 1200 | NGK CR8EKB | 0.6-0.7 MM | |
APRILIA | CAPONORD 1200 RALLY | NGK CR8EKB | 0.6-0.7 MM | |
APRILIA | CLASSIC 125 | NGK BR8ES | NGK BR8EIX | 0.8 MM |
APRILIA | DORSODURO 900 (EURO 4) | NGK CR8EKB | NGK CR8EIX | |
APRILIA | DORSODURO SMV 1200 | NGK CR9EKB | NGK CR9EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | DORSODURO SMV 750 | NGK CR7EKB | NGK CR7EIX | 0.6-0.7 MM |
APRILIA | ETV 1000 CAPONORD | NGK DCPR9E | NGK DCPR9EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | ETX 125 ENDURO | NGK BR8ES | NGK BPR8EIX | 0.5-0.6 MM |
APRILIA | ETX 350 TUAREG | NGK D8EA | NGK DR8EIX | 0.6-0.7 MM |
APRILIA | GULLIVER 50 LC | NGK BR8HS | NGK BR8HIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | HABANA 125 | NGK CR7E | 0.7-0.8 MM | |
APRILIA | HABANA 50 / CUSTOM | NGK BPR8HS | NGK BPR8HIX | 0.6-0.7 MM |
APRILIA | LEONARDO 125 | NGK CR8E | NGK CR8EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | LEONARDO 150 | NGK CR8E | NGK CR8EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | LEONARDO 250 | NGK DR8EA | NGK DR8EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | LEONARDO 300 | NGK DR7EA | – | 0.6 MM |
APRILIA | MANA 850 (NA 850 MANA) | NGK CR7EKB | NGK CR7EIX | |
APRILIA | MANA 850 GT (NA 850 MANA GT) | NGK CR7EKB | NGK CR7EIX | |
APRILIA | MOJITO 125 | |||
APRILIA | MOJITO 125 CUSTOM | NGK CR7EB | ||
APRILIA | MOJITO 50 (2-T) | |||
APRILIA | MOJITO 50 CUSTOM | NGK BR10ES | NGK BR10EIX | 0.6 MM |
APRILIA | MOTO 6.5 | NGK D8EA | NGK DR8EIX | 0.6-0.7 MM |
APRILIA | MX 125 SUPERMOTO | NGK BR8ES | NGK BR8EIX | 0.8 MM |
APRILIA | PEGASO 125 | NGK B10EG | 0.5-0.6 MM | |
APRILIA | PEGASO 600 | NGK D8EA. D8ER | NGK DR8EIX | 0.6-0.7 MM |
APRILIA | PEGASO 600 | NGK D8EA | NGK DR8EIX | 0.6 MM |
APRILIA | PEGASO 650 | NGK D8EA | NGK DR8EIX | 0.6-0.7 MM |
APRILIA | PEGASO 650 | NGK D8EA | NGK DR8EIX | 0.5 MM / 0.6-0.7 MM |
APRILIA | PEGASO 650 I.E. | NGK DR8EB | NGK DR8EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | PEGASO 650 I.E. FACTORY | NGK CR7E | NGK CR7EIX | 0.7-0.8 MM |
APRILIA | PEGASO 650 I.E. STRADA | NGK CR7E | NGK CR7EIX | 0.7-0.8 MM |
APRILIA | PEGASO 650 I.E. TRAIL | NGK CR7E | NGK CR7EIX | 0.7-0.8 MM |
APRILIA | RALLY 50 AC | NGK BR7HS | NGK BR7HIX | 0.5 MM |
APRILIA | RALLY 50 LC | NGK BR8HS | NGK BR8HIX | 0.6-0.7 MM |
APRILIA | RED ROSE 125 | NGK B10EG | NGK BR10EIX | 0.5-0.6 MM |
APRILIA | RED ROSE 125 | NGK B10EG | NGK BR10EIX | 0.5 MM |
APRILIA | RED ROSE 50 | NGK B9ES | NGK BR9EIX | 0.5 MM |
APRILIA | RED ROSE CLASSIC | NGK B9ES | NGK BR9EIX | 0.5-0.6 MM |
APRILIA | RS 125 | |||
APRILIA | RS 125 (EURO 4) | NGK CR9EB | NGK CR9EIX | |
APRILIA | RS 125 EXTREMA | NGK BR10EG | 0.6 MM | |
APRILIA | RS 125 REPLICA | NGK BR10EG | 0.5 MM | |
APRILIA | RS 125 REPLICA | NGK BR10EG | 0.8 MM | |
APRILIA | RS 250 | NGK BR9ECM | 0.7-0.8 MM | |
APRILIA | RS 250 | NGK BR9ECM | 0.7-0.8 MM | |
APRILIA | RS 50 EXTREMA | NGK B8ES | NGK BR8EIX | 0.5 MM |
APRILIA | RS4 125 / REPLICA | NGK CR9EB | NGK CR9EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | RST 1000 FUTURA | NGK DCPR9E | NGK DCPR9EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | RSV 1000 R | NGK DCPR9E | NGK DCPR9EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | RSV 1000 R FACTORY | NGK DCPR9E | NGK DCPR9EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | RSV 1000 R / RR / FACTORY | NGK DCPR9E | NGK DCPR9EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | RSV MILLE | NGK DCPR9E | NGK DCPR9EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | RSV MILLE | NGK DCPR9E | NGK DCPR9EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | RSV MILLE R | NGK DCPR9E | NGK DCPR9EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | RSV MILLE SP | NGK R0045Q-10 | ||
APRILIA | RSV4 1000 RR | |||
APRILIA | RSV4 1100 FACTORY | |||
APRILIA | RSV4 FACTORY (APRC / ABS) | NGK CR9EKB | NGK CR9EIX | 0.7-0.8 MM |
APRILIA | RSV4 R (APRC / ABS) | NGK CR9EB | NGK CR9EIX | 0.7-0.8 MM |
APRILIA | RSV4 RF (EURO 4) | NGK CR9EKB | NGK CR9EIX | |
APRILIA | RSV4 RR | NGK CR9EKB | NGK CR9EIX | |
APRILIA | RSV4 RR (EURO 4) | NGK CR9EKB | NGK CR9EIX | |
APRILIA | RSV4 / FACTORY | NGK CR9EB | NGK CR9EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | RX 125 ABS | NGK CR8E | NGK CR8EIX | |
APRILIA | RXV 450 | NGK CR8EKB | NGK CR8EIX | |
APRILIA | RXV 550 | NGK BR8EB | 0.7-0.8 MM | |
APRILIA | SCARABEO 100 4T | |||
APRILIA | SCARABEO 125 | NGK CR8EB | 0.6-0.7 MM | |
APRILIA | SCARABEO 125 I.E. | NGK PMR9B | 0.7 MM | |
APRILIA | SCARABEO 125 / GT / STREET | NGK CR8EB | NGK CR8EIX | 0.6 MM |
APRILIA | SCARABEO 150 / GT (ROTAX MOTOR) | NGK CR8E | NGK CR8EIX | 0.6 MM |
APRILIA | SCARABEO 200 / GT / I.E. | NGK CR8EB (BIS 08) | NGK PMR9B (From 09) | 0.7-0.8 MM |
APRILIA | SCARABEO 250 | NGK CR8EB | NGK CR8EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | SCARABEO 300 SPECIAL | NGK CR8EKB | – | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | SCARABEO 400 / I.E. | NGK CR7EKB | – | 0.8 MM |
APRILIA | SCARABEO 50 | NGK BR7HS (93-03) | NGK CPR8E (00-04) | 0.5-0.6 MM |
APRILIA | SCARABEO 50Â 4T | NGK PMR7A | 0.7 MM | |
APRILIA | SCARABEO 50Â 4T | NGK ER9EH-N | 0.6-0.7 MM | |
APRILIA | SCARABEO 50Â 4T | NGK CR9EB | NGK CR9EIX | 0.6 MM |
APRILIA | SCARABEO 500 | NGK CR7EKB | 0.8 MM | |
APRILIA | SCARABEO 500 I.E. | NGK CR7EKB | – | 0.7-0.9 MM |
APRILIA | SHIVER 750 GT | NGK CR7EKB | NGK CR7EIX | GEM.ANGABE APRILIA |
APRILIA | SHIVER 750 SL | NGK CR7EKB | NGK CR7EIX | GEM.ANGABE APRILIA |
APRILIA | SHIVER 900 (EURO 4) | NGK CR8EKB | NGK CR8EIX | |
APRILIA | SL 1000 FALCO | NGK DCPR9E | NGK DCPR9EIX | 0.6-0.7 MM |
APRILIA | SONIC AC / LC 50 | AC: NGK BR7HS | LC: NGK BR8HS | AC:0.5MM / LC:0.6MM |
APRILIA | SPORTCITY 125 | |||
APRILIA | SPORTCITY 200 | NGK CR8EB | NGK CR8EIX | 0.8 MM |
APRILIA | SPORTCITY 250IE | NGK PMR8B | 0.7 MM | |
APRILIA | SPORTCITY CUBE 125 | NGK CR8EB | NGK CR8EIX | 0.8 MM |
APRILIA | SPORTCITY CUBE 300 | |||
APRILIA | SPORTCITY ONE 125 | NGK CR7EB | ||
APRILIA | SPORTCITY ONE 50 (4-Stroke) | NGK CR8EB | 0.7 MM | |
APRILIA | SR 125 | NGK BR8ES | NGK BR8EIX | 0.6 MM |
APRILIA | SR 125 MOTARD | NGK CR7EB | 0.7-0.8 MM | |
APRILIA | SR 150 | NGK BR9ES | NGK BR9EIX | 0.6 MM |
APRILIA | SR 50 AC | NGK BR7HS | NGK BR7HIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | SR 50 DITECH | NGK CPR8E | 0.6 MM | |
APRILIA | SR 50 LC | NGK BPR8HS | NGK BPR8HIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | SR 50 LC | NGK BR8HS | 0.5-0.6 MM | |
APRILIA | SR 50 MOTARD | NGK BR8ES | NGK BR8EIX | |
APRILIA | SR 50 R | NGK BR9ES | 0.6 MM | |
APRILIA | SR 50 R FACTORY | NGK CPR8E | 0.6 MM | |
APRILIA | SR MAX 125 I.E. | NGK CR8EKB | ||
APRILIA | SR MAX 300 I.E. | NGK CR8EKB | – | 0.7 – 0.8 MM |
APRILIA | SRV 850 / ABS | NGK CR7EKB | 0.7-0.9 MM | |
APRILIA | SX 125 ABS 4T | NGK CR8E | NGK CR8EIX | |
APRILIA | SX 125 SUPERMOTO | NGK BR10EG | NICHT VERFÜGBAR | 0.5 MM |
APRILIA | SX 50 (2-Stroke-Oil) | NGK BR8ES | 0.6-0.7 MM | |
APRILIA | SX 50 (2-Stroke-Oil) | NGK BR8ES | 0.6-0.7 MM | |
APRILIA | SXV 450 SUPERMOTO | NGK CR8EKB | NGK CR8EIX | |
APRILIA | SXV 550 SUPERMOTO | NGK CR8EB | 0.7-0.8 MM | |
APRILIA | TUAREG WIND 600 | NGK D8EA | NGK DR8EIX | 0.6-0.7 MM |
APRILIA | TUAREG WIND 600 | NGK D8EA | NGK DR8EIX | 0.5 MM |
APRILIA | TUONO 1000 | NGK DCPR9E | NGK DCPR9EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | TUONO 1000 R | NGK DCPR9E | NGK DCPR9EIX | 0.7 MM |
APRILIA | TUONO 1000 R FACTORY | NGK DCPR9E | NGK DCPR9EIX | 0.6-0.7 MM |
APRILIA | TUONO 125 (EURO 4) | NGK CR8E | NGK CR8EIX | |
APRILIA | TUONO V4 1100 FACTORY | NGK CR9EIX | NGK CR9EKB | |
APRILIA | TUONO V4 1100 FACTORY (EURO 4) | NGK CR9EIX | NGK CR9EKB | |
APRILIA | TUONO V4 1100 RR | NGK CR9EKB | NGK CR9EIX | |
APRILIA | TUONO V4 1100 RR (EURO 4) | NGK CR9EKB | NGK CR9EIX | |
APRILIA | TUONO V4 1100 RR / FACTORY | NGK CR9EKB | 0.7-0.8 MM | |
APRILIA | TUONO V4R | NGK CR9EKB | NGK CR9EIX | 0.7 MM |
Reading your spark plug
The image of the spark plugs above shows four common conditions that you’ll find your spark plugs in. From left to right the plugs are Normal, Rich, Lean and Very Lean. Full descriptions below.
Before you throw your old spark plug in the bin, check them to get an understanding of how well your engine is running.
Normal condition
If the plug is brown or light grey your can assume your engine is in good condition and the spark plug is functioning well. Even when a plug is in good condition small deposits will accumulate. This is normal.
Rich
There are many different causes of spark plug fouling. If the plug has oil on it, then it’s oiling up and may not work efficiently, potentially causing a misfire or stuttering under hard acceleration. If it’s just dark or black the bike could be running too rich. A heavy accumulation of carbon on the nose can cause a leakage path to earth. This can cause misfires and poor engine starting.
Causes: The causes of this can be anything from, a rich fuel mixture, too much choke, long periods of low-speed riding or idling in traffic, a blocked air filter or the plug’s heat range is too cold.
Lean
If the engine is running lean then the spark plug has a grey colour but you’ll probably see some black deposits on there too.
Causes: Insufficient cooling, blocked injectors, too lean a fuel mixture
Very Lean
If the engine is running dangerously lean the whole plug tip will be grey or white. If the temperature is over 850-degrees, pre-ignition may occur. Engine power will be reduced and you risk piston damage.
Causes: Insufficient cooling, blocked injectors, too lean a fuel mixture, ignition timing too far advanced, excessive combustion chamber deposits.
Motorcycle Spark Plug Fitting Guide + Tips
- When you’ve removed your spark plugs, check the condition of the threads in the cylinder head and put a cloth over the cylinder head if you’re going to leave it exposed.
- Install each spark plug by hand until you have wound the thread a couple of turns. This reduces the chances of you cross-threading the plug.
- Torque the spark plug up to your manufacturer’s recommended settings. If you don’t have a torque wrench, then get the plug hand tight and then add a ½ turn for a plug with a gasket, and more like a ¼ turn for a tapered spark plug. Over-tightening can snap the spark plug – a nightmare.
- Don’t put any lubricant or thread lock on the spark plug. Inspect your spark plug caps and replace if required.
Iridium Spark Plug vs Standard
A regular spark plug uses a copper central electrode whereas an iridium spark plug uses, you guessed it, iridium.
The metal in a spark plug has a single purpose: to channel the electrical energy through the spark plug. Iridium is far harder than copper and this allows the spark plug manufacturers to create a plug with a sharper ‘tip’ which better focuses the spark around the centre electrode without compromising its service life.
A typical copper spark plug will last around 20,000 miles and most get changed at a major service (usually around 16,000 miles) but an iridium spark plug will be good for around 50,000 miles and you do see people running them to 100,000 miles with no issues.
Copper is generally seen as being the best metal to use in terms of conductivity but iridium plugs are seen as premium as they last longer than standard plugs and can be built with smaller tolerances. Iridium spark plugs also have lower voltage requirements, meaning they perform better when starting and idling and some manufacturers also claim they offer a better throttle response.
Iridium plugs are more expensive than copper but seeing as they last longer and offer a more consistent performance throughout their lifetime, many bikes opt for an iridium ‘upgrade’.
Spark Plug Removal
If you’re going to be doing any sort of work on the bike, treat yourself to a decent set of tools. Most of mine are from the Halfords Advanced range (formerly called Professional).
They have a lifetime guarantee and for an amateur bodger like me, they’re perfect.
The image above shows their 100pc range, which costs around £125. It’s a comprehensive bit of kit and includes a 1/4″, 3/8″ and 1/2″ drive, alongside plug sockets, universal joints and a wobble bar. Pretty much everything you’ll ever need for any motorcycle maintenance job.
Motorcycle Spark Plug Removal Tools
If you’ve not changed your plugs before, give yourself a couple of hours to complete the task. Here are the essentials you need for smooth re-plugging:
Your owner’s manual
You’ll need this to help you find the location of your spark plugs and how to access them. This may sound simple but often the manual offers up some time-saving tips for your particular model.
A spark plug socket
You’ll need a deep socket. A decent tool kit will have them. Don’t get confused between thread size and socket size. Motorcycle spark plug socket sizes are usually 16mm, 18mm or 20.6mm (21mm will do). Whereas the threads are usually 10mm, 12mm or 14mm. When it comes to motorcycles, access is usually tricky, so my tip is to buy a magnetic spark plug socket like this one. Once you’ve undone your old plug, this will help you remove it with far less effing and jeffing.
A wobble socket / universal joint
You’ll be lucky if there’s a straight line to your spark plug, so a universal joint will get you the angle you need to apply some torque. Again, a decent toolset will have one.
A 3/8″ drive
You could buy a specific spark plug T-bar but your home tool kit will have the drive you need to connect to your plug sockets.
A spark plug gap gauge
This nifty little tool only costs a few quid and will help you set the correct gap for your spark plug. However, modern plugs are almost all motorcycle-specific fit and so they come ‘pre-gapped’ and you won’t need to touch them. If you’re running a classic bike, you’ll probably need to set your gap and if your bike’s not running right, a gap tool can help you rule out a potential incorrect gap issue.
A torque wrench
It’s important to properly torque your spark plugs. Too tight and you’ll risk snapping it or it will be a mission to remove. Too loose and you risk an electrical short. Your owner’s manual will have the correct torque settings.
Motorcycle Spark Plug FAQ
What are the common motorcycle spark plug sizes?
Thread diameters of 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm are the most common. In fact, when it comes to motorcycles, it's rare to find any other sizes in use.
How long should a spark plug last?
Motorcycle spark plugs usually last around 16,000 miles, or at least this is when most manufacturer service schedules recommend you change them. That's typically once every other major service. However if you use Iridium spark plugs they will last a lot longer, usually well over 30,000 miles.
How do you clean motorcycle spark plugs?
Just remove the plug and use a wire brush to gently brush off any deposits on the electrode. Don't use a power tool, by hand is all that's required.
Many moto service manuals say 0,6 to 0,7 gap for the spark plug. The spark plugs have 0,8 gap from the factory. We use them with 0,8 gap. Should we adjust the gap to 0,6 to 0,7? No-one have answered me this!