There aren’t many bikers who like winter. Either you have to ride through it because your bike is your main form of transport or you just don’t want to expose your pride and joy to road crud and therefore you miss out on your biking fix over the winter months.
If you’re riding through winter, this guide is designed to help you winterize your bike, so that it doesn’t get hammered by the weather nor does it let you down when you need it most.
Hibernating your motorcycle involves slightly more than just lobbing it in the garage and shutting the door. Especially if you’re storing it for a longer period of time, like 3 months. Follow our basic steps and you’ll be wheeling your bike out again next year, with nothing to worry about.
Winter Motorcycle Maintenance
If you’re not one to put your bike into hibernation over the winter months, there are still a few steps you need to take to make sure your bike is ready for the cold weather. Here are our tips and tricks to help keep your bike in top shape:
First things first, give your bike a really good clean. You want to get rid of all the existing dirt that’ll only help more dirt and salt stick to your bike parts, causing them to corrode even faster.
If you can’t be bothered to do the grunt work yourself, then take the bike to a hand car wash and get them to give it the once over. This is a decent starting point but you should follow up with a bit of effort on the areas that you can’t see that well (the rear shock, up and under the headstock, etc). 10 minutes with some warm soapy water and a decent brush will make all the difference.
Properly dry your bike with a microfibre cloth.
Handy link: Motorcycle cleaning guide
Avoid using a pressure washer at all costs. The fine spray can get in all the nooks and crannies then expand when frozen. Spraying WD-40 or something similar can help dissipate the water. The last thing you want is taking your bike out and find something isn’t working.
Once you’ve washed your bike, coat any metalwork (except your discs) with a corrosion inhibitor like Scottoiler FS365 or AFC-50. This will protect it against salt from the roads and extra dirt. Come the summertime, you can remove it with a good wash and degreasing session.
Handy link: ACF-50 Anti Corrosion Lubricant
Rims get damaged when your tyres get changed; it’s hard to avoid. The winter weather will cause any chips to blister and the problem will get far worse. A good way to sort this is to coat your rims in a wheel wax which helps disperse water, provides a good layer of protection from the elements and makes them so much easier to get clean.
Handy link: Poorboys Wheel Sealant
If you don’t have a rear mudguard on your bike, your shock will get knackered by all the road crap that gets flung at it. The shock spring coating will likely chip and then rust, any adjusters will get furred-up and the preload threads will become caked in grime. Not forgetting the rear of the engine which will also get a pasting. Spending £50 on a hugger is money well spent.
Keeping your brake and clutch levers lubricated helps keep them in top shape throughout the cold months. Use a dab of grease for your side stands and suspension linkages (it stays in place longer and doesn’t wash away easily in the wet).
In wet weather, your chain will wear faster as the rain and road crud will work to dislodge any chain lubrication. Keeping it lubricated will protect it from wear. A good idea is investing in a decent motorcycle chain oiler or manually lubricate it every 150 miles or so.
Handy link: Motorcycle chain oilers
No-one likes to be on their hands and knees scrubbing their brakes but a little bit of TLC will help them stay fur-free and operating well. Once a week, give your brakes a once-over with a toothbrush and a bit of hot water to remove the built-up salt. Consider removing your brake pads now and again and clean with brake cleaner.
Clean your sprockets regularly with degreaser or a chain cleaner to get rid of the grime-laden buildup of chain lube. Make sure you coat with an anti-corrosion spray when you’ve finished.
Handy link: Motorcycle chain degreasers
Salt on the roads can be a right pain for forks. There are two schools of thought when it comes to winter riding. Some remove the dust seal then grease up the seal to prevent corrosion – the argument being that the grease helps collect any crud. Others recommend giving the seals a wipe with a cloth once a week to remove the build-up of road crap and preventing it from working its way past the seals.
In the car world, you can buy winter tyres but in the bike world there isn’t such a thing as a winter tyre.
However, you can buy winter-focused tyres for your bike. A Sports-Touring or Touring motorcycle tyre will have more tread, warm up quicker and work better in cold temperatures compared to a Sports tyre.
Better rubber means you’ll have heaps more confidence in the bike, making the riding experience that bit more enjoyable. You don’t want to spend winter tip-toeing around, wondering when you’re going to run out of grip.
Always check your tyre pressure before you ride (the tyres should be cold to get the best reading). Riding on low-pressure tyres will reduce the gaps in the tread, meaning they can’t disperse water as well, increasing your risk of an accident. Don’t be tempted to reduce your tyre pressures.
The darker days bring a whole new hazard, so carrying a spare dipped beam and rear bulbs will help if you’re likely to be out after dark. Got a light that’s blinking or a bit dicky? Now’s the time to get it sorted. Check your lights before you ride – every time!
Look after your battery
If you’re a fan of heated clothing during the winter, make sure you keep your battery topped up. If your regulator isn’t up to the job, it might not always be capable of keeping the battery fully charged, meaning the bike might not start when you need it to. Fit a trickle charger (with a quick-release plug) to keep the battery in good shape.
More debris collects on the road during winter and with that comes an increase in puncture hazards like screws and nails. Unfortunately, fewer motorbikes on the road increases your chances of picking up a puncture from a zone where motorcycle wheels tend to go (on the outside of traffic approaching a traffic light, for example). Carrying a motorcycle puncture repair kit can save you a call-out and a lot of hassle.
Check your motorcycle’s engine oil regularly. Your bike works harder in the cold weather. If you only have water in your radiator, replace this with antifreeze and keep an eye on your water hoses to make sure none of them are leaking. Fitting a front mudguard extender can protect your engine and radiator from road spray.
I like to take my 1198SP out for the odd winter ride to blow off the cobwebs – it’s not the best bike to tackle winter, it’s a bit firm and a bit too eager on greasy roads. However, it’s the kit you ride in that’s important, not the bike.
If you’re cold while riding, you’re going to quickly lose your ability to concentrate. That’s when you make mistakes or even worse, find yourself involved in an accident. Not even the safest bike can prevent that.
You don’t NEED heated motorcycle clothing to stay warm during winter but it makes a bloomin’ huge difference.
As obvious as it sounds, keeping warm on a motorcycle is about stopping the cold air from getting in and keeping as much of the warm air from escaping. So many bikers don’t know how to properly layer their kit.
Get your layers right
We’re written a very good guide (even if we do say so ourselves) on the topic of effective layering to stay warm. This is the best place for any biker to start and get right. So many bikers get this wrong, so check that out first.
Waterproof your gear
If you have a sneaking suspicion that your textile gear won’t keep the rain out, you can vastly improve its waterproofing by using a wash-in or spray-on waterproofing solution. It’s a cheap and effective solution and should repel any water and stop it from seeping through your kit and making you cold.
Grab a neck tube
For winter riding, a long neck tube – like this one – that goes all the way down to your shoulders is a great option. Pull it up around your ears before you put your lid on, then do the lid up over the neck tube to create a decent seal. Check the retention system is nice and secure. Do up your jacket’s storm collar and you’ll be ready to face anything. Check out our guide on the best motorcycle neck warmers here for lots of good choices.
Yes, heated grips work but my advice is to get a heated motorcycle vest. It keeps your core warm and with that, your hands don’t get as cold. A heated vest can run on a rechargeable battery or be wired into the bike. You can get all sorts of other heated accessories, from heated gloves to jackets and even heated neck tubes.
Maximise your vision
A clear visor is a must. To prevent it from fogging up, you can fit a Pinlock if your visor is designed to accept one or apply an anti-fog solution. If you still suffer from fogging, you can use a breath guard or a neck tube to cover your mouth and reduce condensation. Or you can open up the chin vent or pop the visor open a few millimeters to allow a bit of air to flow past the visor and reduce the fogging.
If your visor has scratches, these will be annoying in the day but potentially dangerous at night as headlight beams, coupled with rainwater will make it hard to see. If in doubt, grab a new visor.
Invest in your toes!
Unless you’re lucky enough to ride an air-cooled flat-twin, your foot will be sat exposed to the cold air. Cold, wet and numb feet make the riding experience a real chore. Summer boots will do little to keep your feet warm, so ditch them for a set of waterproof winter boots or, if you can spare the cash, get a decent pair of Gore-Tex motorcycle boots to keep the worst of the weather from chilling your tootsies.
If you’re not one for riding during the winter, storing your bike correctly means it’ll ready to go once the weather improves. Here are our top tips:
You want to remove any build-up of salts or other debris which will eat into the bike’s components and ruin the finish. Check out our guide on cleaning and polishing your motorcycle.
If you don’t have a garage but you’re lucky enough to have space in your house, you could always stash the bike there over winter.
If the house isn’t an option, make sure your bike is kept away from prying eyes. You could store it in your back garden with an outdoor bike cover to protect it from the weather. Or you could put it into a motorcycle storage facility, where it’ll be safely tucked-up and fully insured.
If you have the option, using paddock stands keeps the weight off the tyres, so they keep their shape. If not, you could always over-inflate your tyres slightly. If you’re storing your bike for more than a few weeks, roll it forward 6-inches every month to keep the tyres from developing flat spots. Check out our guide to paddock stands here.
If you want to keep your battery healthy, you can connect up a smart charger, which will trickle in current when it detects a drop. If you have an alarm, you’ll need to rig the bike up to a charger to keep the battery from going flat and ensure the alarm’s ready to go. The cold weather can help finish off a battery.
However if you’re not using the bike and you’ve not got access to a charger, disconnect the battery and remove it from the bike. Store it somewhere safe in the house, where it won’t experience freezing-cold conditions.
Even when your bike’s at a standstill, corrosion can set in. There are plenty of protectants on the market. Give your engine and moving parts a good coating and apply some to your downpipes and exhaust to keep them from the elements.
This prevents the petrol from going off while your bike’s in storage. Ethanol in modern petrol can also eat away at the coating inside your tank, causing it to leak.
If your bike has carbs then drain the fuel out completely. If you have a fuel-injected bike you can drain the tank or top it right up to prevent any condensation from forming inside. This is a well-rated fuel stabiliser.
Some like to start their engine once a month and run it up until the temperature needle rises. This keeps the engine oil circulating through the upper parts of the engine, ensuring they’re not prone to weathering.
As previously mentioned. If your bike is an older model running on carbs, don’t leave them sat with fuel over winter or they’ll be a nightmare to sort a few months down the line.
If you really want to go the extra mile, do this after you’ve had your last run to remove the old oil and put fresh stuff in. This is a good thing to do if you’re storing the bike long term. Check out our guide to the best engine oil for your motorcycle.
Avoid accidentally scratching your bike, dropping something on it or it getting covered in dust by fitting a cover. You don’t need to spend a fortune, a £10 one will do the trick.
Whether you have an alarm or not, investing in a decent motorcycle lock and ground anchor will help you rest easy at night. Alarmingly, 80% of motorcycle thefts are from a home location. Check out our top picks to keep your bike safe.
If you don’t ride over winter but you suffer from SOBS (Summer Only Biker Syndrome), you can still get a two-wheel fix.
You can hire a bike and all the gear at one of the UK’s Adventure motorcycle riding schools. Get wet, muddy, fall off someone else’s bike and laugh a lot.
It’s never a bad time to learn how to wheelie. You can turn up in the car, don your gear and spend the day learning to wheelie a stunt school bike at a motorcycle wheelie school. Warning: motorcycle wheelies are dangerously addictive.
Head to sunnier climes and sample brilliant roads. How? Just get a cheap return flight to Southern Spain or Italy and rent a motorcycle for the weekend. A brand new bike, great roads, loads of sunshine, and cracking food. What’s not to like?
Don’t fall into the trap of thinking you need to ride your own bike to ride in winter. Take a different approach!
Do I need to warm my engine up before riding?
Absolutely. If you can spare the time to let your engine warm-up, it’ll ensure that oil can flow everywhere it’s needed and as the oil warms up, it’ll flow as required, meaning when you put the engine under load there won’t be a risk of oil starvation which can prematurely wear the engine’s internals.
Fire your bike up and let it tick over while you secure your lid and put your gloves on, then go easy for the first mile.
Will a motorcycle rust in a shed?
This obviously all depends on how weatherproof your shed is. If it lets in wind and rain then the bike will weather more than if it was well sealed. However, even a creaky shed is preferable to leaving your bike outside over winter.
How long can petrol sit in a tank for?
If you’re not using your motorcycle for a couple of months and it’s not exposed to extremes of temperature, the petrol in the tank will be fine. The higher the octane of the fuel, the better.
If you’re laying-up your motorcycle for any period of time, it makes sense to use a fuel stabiliser, which will mean that even after a long period of storage, 6-12 months, the fuel will be good to use.
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