Intro
We’ve created this MV Agusta oil filter lookup guide, to help you quickly find the right oil filter for your MV.
We’ve listed the make and model of bike, its engine capacity and production years, so that you can be double-sure you’re ordering the right filter.
We’ve then listed the part number for two of the most popular aftermarket oil filter brands: K&N and HifloFiltro so you can easily order the part through your local motorcycle dealer or just follow the link to where you can buy online.
We’ve also written a few handy guides, from the different oil filter removal tools you can use, to a conversion chart that converts the model numbers of the popular brands. We’ve also got an FAQ and a guide on how to do your first motorcycle oil change.
Table of Contents
MV Agusta Oil Filter Reference Chart
Make | Model | Year | CC | Oil Filter | Performance |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
MV Agusta | 910 Brutale R / S | 05-08 | 910 | HF554 | |
MV Agusta | 920 Brutale | 11 | 920 | HF567 | |
MV Agusta | 920 Brutale | 12 | 920 | HF567 | |
MV Agusta | 989 Brutale | 09 | 989 | HF204 | HF204RC |
MV Agusta | 990 Brutale R | 10-11 | 990 | HF567 | |
MV Agusta | Brutale 1078RR | 09 | 1078 | HF204 | HF204RC |
MV Agusta | Brutale 1090 | 14-16 | 1090 | HF567 | |
MV Agusta | Brutale 1090 Corsa | 15-16 | 1090 | HF567 | |
MV Agusta | Brutale 1090R | 12-14 | 1090 | HF567 | |
MV Agusta | Brutale 1090RR | 10-16 | 1090 | HF567 | |
MV Agusta | Brutale 675 | 12-16 | 675 | HF569 | |
MV Agusta | Brutale 800 | 13-16 | 800 | HF569 | |
MV Agusta | Brutale 800 Dragster | 15-16 | 800 | HF569 | |
MV Agusta | Brutale 800 Dragster RR | 15-16 | 800 | HF569 | |
MV Agusta | Brutale 800 Dragster RR LH44 | 16 | 800 | HF569 | |
MV Agusta | Brutale 800 RR | 15-17 | 800 | HF569 | |
MV Agusta | F3 675 | 11-16 | 675 | HF569 | |
MV Agusta | F3 675 RC | 16 | 675 | HF569 | |
MV Agusta | F3 675 Serie Oro | 12 | 675 | HF569 | |
MV Agusta | F3 800 | 13-16 | 800 | HF569 | |
MV Agusta | F3 800 AGO | 15-16 | 800 | HF569 | |
MV Agusta | F3 800 AMG GT | 16 | 800 | HF569 | |
MV Agusta | F3 800 RC | 16 | 800 | HF569 | |
MV Agusta | F4 Agostini | 03 | 750 | HF554 | |
MV Agusta | F4 Brutale | 05 | 750 | HF554 | |
MV Agusta | F4 Brutale S | 02-03 | 750 | HF554 | |
MV Agusta | F4 Brutale Serie Ono | 01-03 | 750 | HF554 | |
MV Agusta | F4 R 312 | 08 | 1078 | HF204 | HF204RC |
MV Agusta | F4 R 312 1 + 1 | 08 | 1078 | HF204 | HF204RC |
MV Agusta | F4 RR 312 1078 | 09 | 1078 | HF204 | HF204RC |
MV Agusta | F4 S | 00-02 | 750 | HF554 | |
MV Agusta | F4 S 1+1 | 00-02 | 750 | HF554 | |
MV Agusta | F4 S 750 1+1 EVO 3 | 03 | 750 | HF554 | |
MV Agusta | F4 S 750 EVO 3 | 03 | 750 | HF554 | |
MV Agusta | F4 Senna | 01-02 | 750 | HF554 | |
MV Agusta | F4 SPR | 01-03 | 750 | HF554 | |
MV Agusta | F4-1000 | 05-07 | 1000 | HF554 | |
MV Agusta | F4-1000 | 10-11 | 1000 | HF567 | |
MV Agusta | F4-1000 | 12-16 | 1000 | HF567 | |
MV Agusta | F4-1000 1+1 | 07 | 1000 | HF554 | |
MV Agusta | F4-1000 R | 12-14 | 1000 | HF567 | |
MV Agusta | F4-1000 RC | 16 | 1000 | HF567 | |
MV Agusta | F4-1000 RR | 12-16 | 1000 | HF567 | |
MV Agusta | Rivale 800 | 13-17 | 800 | HF569 | |
MV Agusta | Stradale 800 | 15-16 | 800 | HF569 | |
MV Agusta | Turismo Veloce 800 | 14-17 | 800 | HF569 | |
MV Agusta | Turismo Veloce Lusso 800 | 14-17 | 800 | HF569 |
Oil Filter Removal Tools
There is a multitude of ways to remove your oil filter. If you have a suspicion it’s going to be tight or stuck on, then the night before, spray a penetrating spray around the seal to help it loosen. It can be frustrating if it won’t come off but be careful not to butcher it and rip the filter casing or it will become even harder to remove. A good tap around the seal with a rubber hammer can also help break the seal. Use the right tools and use your brains not brute force.
By Hand
If your filter is easy to access and you can get a good purchase on it, then you can loosen it off by hand. Obviously, if you’re draining the oil, the engine should be warm and so the filter will be hot but you can ‘crack’ it off to break the seal, then warm the engine up, drain the oil and then continue to remove the oil filter by hand.
With Rubber Gloves
As above but disposable rubber gloves or mechanic’s workshop gloves will offer you a bit more purchase and enable you to get some more torque to that filter!
Oil Filter Removal Socket
A cheap and commonly used tool. The oil filter removal socket fits to a 1/4″ ratchet drive or T-bar. It pays to ensure your filter is clean before you use this tool as a dirt y filter is hard to grip. A bit of disc-brake cleaner and a cloth should do it. If you need to get a bit more purchase you can use masking or gaffa tape around the filter or fit a couple of elastic bands.
Oil Filter Chain Tool
A chain tool is also a decent weapon in your oil filter removal arsenal. You wrap it around the filter and then twist it. As you twist, you’ll probably dent the filter but that also helps the tool grip. You can then tighten it up a link and twist again. Handy if your filter has been fitted by the Incredible Hulk at your local motorcycle dealer.
Oil Filter Removal Belt
Similar to the chain tool, the removal belt comes in a few different formats. Some have a metal belt (not as good), others have rubber or a nylon wave (the sort of thing a seatbelt is made from. You hand tighten them and twist. They’re useful to get a stuck filter off as you can use one hand on the tool and the other hand on the filter.
3-Leg Oil Filter Socket
Similar to the conventional socket, the three-legged socket bites into the oil filter and can be used across a range of different sizes. So a handy tool to have if you own multiple bikes.
Stab it with a Screwdriver
Stab a big screwdriver through your oil filter and twist it. I’m not a big fan of this method as A) it’s messy and B) if you get it wrong, you end up tearing half of the filter off and then it’s a total pain in the wotsits to remove the remnants as none of the other tools will work. To reduce the chances of this happening, get the screwdriver in one side and out of the other.
Make Your Own
If you don’t have an oil filter removal tool, you can make your own. They say a picture paints a thousand words which must mean this Youtube video paints 10,000. It’s fairly self-explanatory. I’ve not done it myself but it definitely looks like a good ‘get you out of a hole’ solution.
Don’t forget the crush washer!
A crush washer is used to seal the sump plug and to prevent engine oil leaking out. It is made from a soft alloy (usually copper) and will ‘crush’ when you tighten it up, creating a better seal than the sump plug will on its own.
They cost pennies so it doesn’t make sense to try and reuse your old one or not use one at all.
However, even if you do buy a new one, it’s easy to forget to use it. When I remove the sump plug, I throw the old crush washer away immediately, fit the new crush washer and then use some making tape to hold it in place. The tape also slows me down when I come to refit the sump plug and makes me double-check everything.
You can buy a box of crush washers here or from this link.
OEM Vs Aftermarket oil filters
You might be wondering whether you should use a factory oil filter or an aftermarket one.
These days, most manufacturers source their oil filters from the same companies that produce the aftermarket ones.
In some cases, the manufacturer might specify slightly different materials (perhaps a thicker casing) but if you buy a filter from a reputable brand (like K&N, HifloFiltro, Bosch, FRAM, Purolator) you’ll be in safe hands.
Cheap oil filters tend to skimp on areas that are hard to spot but can make a difference. They can have a thinner casing, which can rip when you go to remove it and the sealing washer can be of poor quality, causing the filter to leak. Quality aftermarket oil filters are absolutely fine but penny-pinching on a cheap oil filter is asking for trouble.
Your First Motorcycle Oil Change
If you’ve not changed your motorcycle’s oil before, it can be daunting. However, with the right tools and a good idea of what you’re doing, anyone can change their motorcycle’s oil. It will save you money and you’ll know it’s been done properly.
Need some pointers? We’ve put together this motorcycle oil change guide to run you through the process.
Oil Filter Conversion Chart
If you’re choosing an aftermarket oil filter, two of the most popular brands are K&N and HifloFiltro. The table below shows you the direct model number conversions, which, on the face of it, are fairly logical. Click the link and you’ll be taken to an online retailer where you can order your filter.
K&N | Hiflo |
Click here for K&N | Click here for HiFlo |
KN-112 | HF-112 |
KN-116 | HF-116 |
KN-133 | HF-133 |
KN-134 | HF-134 |
KN-138 | HF-138 |
KN-139 | HF-139 |
KN-141 | HF-141 |
KN-144 | HF-144 |
KN-145 | HF-145 |
KN-147 | HF-147 |
KN-148 | HF-148 |
KN-151 | HF-151 |
KN-152 | HF-152 |
KN-153 | HF-153 |
KN-154 | HF-154 |
KN-155 | HF-155 |
KN-157 | HF-157 |
KN-160 | HF-160 |
KN-161 | HF-161 |
KN-163 | HF-163 |
KN-164 | HF-164 |
– | HF-165 |
KN-171 | HF-171 |
KN-177 | HF-177 |
KN-191 | HF-191 |
KN-204-1 | HF-204 |
– | HF-204RC |
KN-303 | HF-303 |
KN-401 | HF-401 |
– | HF-551 |
– | HF-552 |
– | HF-553 |
KN-564 | HF-564 |
– | HF-565 |
KN-652 | HF-652 |
Click here for K&N | Click here for HiFlo |
Motorcycle Oil Filter FAQ
Should you change the oil filter every time?
Yes. A fresh filter will filter out any particles, whereas an old filter won't be as efficient. If a filter blocks up, it could cause engine wear but most motorcycles have a bypass valve to prevent catastrophic failure due to oil starvation. An oil filter is a few quid, it's a false economy to reuse an old one.
Can you use the same oil filter twice?
You can but it's not worth it. Not only will the old filter not function as well as a new one but it might not fit back on as well either, potentially coming loose and causing you all sorts of problems.
How tight should the oil filter be?
I work to hand tight plus 180-degrees but consult your owner's manual if you're unsure.
Does an oil filter have a reverse thread?
Nope. They're conventional. When they are stuck on, you can doubt yourself but it's lefty-loosey, righty-tighty.
What happens if you overtighten the oil filter?
There's no need to overtighten it. You can crush the body of the filter or cause a leak if you overtighten it. If it goes on tight, you can be sure it'll be harder to get off!