Although some would argue that a Guzzi will run on pretty much any engine oil, it pays to use the correct grade. It’s also a good idea to buy the best oil you can afford, as it’ll keep your big Guz engine internals in the best of health.
This chooser will help you find the best engine oil grade to keep your Italian beast running smoothly.
Table of Contents
Choosing the right oil filter for your Moto Guzzi
If you’re changing your engine oil, it makes sense to change the oil filter too. An oil filter removes tiny particles from the oil, helping to keep the oil fresher and work to its best ability for longer. A new filter costs a few quid and it only takes a couple of minutes to change.
We’ve put together this [manufacturer oil filter chart] to help you pick the best oil filter for your motorcycle.
How To Change Your Motorcycle’s Oil
If you’ve never changed your motorcycle’s oil before, you might be apprehensive but you needn’t be. With the right tools, anyone can change their engine oil in under an hour. We’ve put together this simple guide to help you through your first motorcycle oil change.
Moto Guzzi Engine Oil Chart
|Make||Model||Engine oil||Oil Capacity|
|MOTO GUZZI||1000 LE MANS III|
|MOTO GUZZI||1000 LE MANS IV||20W50 or 10W50 RS||2.8 – 3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||1000 S|
|MOTO GUZZI||1000 SP II||20W40 or 20W50||3.0 – 3.1 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||1000 SP III||10W40||3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||1000 SP/NT||Classic Oil 20W50||3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||1100 SPORT||10W40||2.75 – 3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||1200 SPORT||10W60||3.6 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||1200 SPORT 4V||5W40||3.6 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||1200 SPORT 8V||5W40||3.6 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||750 S||Classic Oil 30 20W50||3.5 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||750 S3||Classic Oil 30 20W50||3.5 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||850 LE MANS /II||Classic Oil 30 20W-50||3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||850 LE MANS III||–||2.8 – 3.0 L RS|
|MOTO GUZZI||850 T||Classic Oil 30 20W50||3.5 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||850 T3 / T4||Classic Oil 30 20W50||3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||850 T3 CALIFORNIA||10W50||3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||850 T5||10W50||2.8 – 3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||BELLAGIO 940||10W60||3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||BREVA 850||10W60||3.6 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||BREVA V 1100||10W60||3.6 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||BREVA V 1200||10W60||3.6 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||BREVA V 750 I.E||10W60||1.8 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||CALIFORNIA 1100||20W50||2.75 – 3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||CALIFORNIA 1400 AUDACE /CARBON|
|MOTO GUZZI||CALIFORNIA 1400 AUDACE/ELDORADO||10W60||4 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||CALIFORNIA 1400 ELDORADO (EURO 4)|
|MOTO GUZZI||CALIFORNIA 1400 TOURING (EURO 4)|
|MOTO GUZZI||CALIFORNIA 1400 TOURING/SE|
|MOTO GUZZI||CALIFORNIA 3 /CLASSIC||20W40||2.6 – 3.0 L GPS.RS|
|MOTO GUZZI||CALIFORNIA 90|
|MOTO GUZZI||CALIFORNIA CLASSIC/VINTAGE/AQUILA||10W60||3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||CALIFORNIA EV|
|MOTO GUZZI||CALIFORNIA EV TOURING||3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||CALIFORNIA I 1100||10W40||3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||CALIFORNIA II||20W40||2.6 – 3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||CALIFORNIA III IE||10W40||3.0 L API SF or SG|
|MOTO GUZZI||CALIFORNIA JACKAL||5W40 API SL||3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||CALIFORNIA STONE/TOURING/METAL||20W50||3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||DAYTONA 1000 RS||10W40 or 20W50||3.5 L GPS.RS|
|MOTO GUZZI||GRISO 1100||10W60||3.9 L API SG|
|MOTO GUZZI||GRISO 850||10W60||3.6 L API SG|
|MOTO GUZZI||GRISO 8V-1200||10W60||3.5 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||MGX-21 (EURO 4)|
|MOTO GUZZI||MILLE GT||20W40 GPS. RS||3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||NEVADA 750||10W60||1.8 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||NEVADA 750 /CLUB||10W40||2.0 L API SF|
|MOTO GUZZI||NEVADA 750 I.E. CLASSIC||5W40||1.8 L API SG|
|MOTO GUZZI||NEVADA 750 I.E. CLASSIC/TOURING||5W40||1.8 L API SG|
|MOTO GUZZI||NEVADA 750/CLASSIC/CLUB||10W40||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||NORGE 1200||10W60 FS||3.6 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||NORGE 850||10W60||3.6 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||NORGE GT 8V||10W60||3.6 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||QUOTA 1000||10W40 or 20W40||3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||QUOTA 1100 ES||20W50||3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||SPORT 1100||10W50||2.75 – 3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||STELVIO 4V||10W60||3.5 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||STELVIO 8V/NTX||10W60||3.5 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V10 CENTAURO||10W40||3.5 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V1000 G5||Classic Oil 30 20W50||3.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V1000 I CONVERT|
|MOTO GUZZI||V11 SPORT||5W40||3.5 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V11 SPORT/SCURA/ROSSO/CAFE/LE MANS|
|MOTO GUZZI||V35 C||10W50||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V35 II.III||10W50||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V35 IMOLA||20W50||2.5 – 2.7 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V35 IMOLA II||10W50||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V50 C||10W50||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V50 II.III||10W50 or 20W50||2.0 – 2.25 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V50 MONZA||10W50||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V65||20W50||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V65 CUSTOM||10W50||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V65 FLORIDA||10W50 RS||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V65 GT||20W40||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V65 LARIO||10W50||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V65 SAPRISA||10W50 RS||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V65 SP||20W40 or 10W50||1.8 – 2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V65 TT||10W50||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V650 NTX||20W40||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V7 CAFE CLASSIC||10W60||1.8 L API SG|
|MOTO GUZZI||V7 CLASSIC||10W60||1.8 L API SG|
|MOTO GUZZI||V7 II RACER|
|MOTO GUZZI||V7 II STONE /SPECIAL|
|MOTO GUZZI||V7 II STORNELLO (LIwithED EDITION)|
|MOTO GUZZI||V7 III ANNIVERSARIO (EURO 4)||10W60||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V7 III MILANO||10W60||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V7 III RACER (EURO 4)|
|MOTO GUZZI||V7 III SPECIAL (EURO 4)||10W60||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V7 III STONE (EURO 4)||10W60||2.0 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V7 RACER|
|MOTO GUZZI||V7 SPECIAL/STONE||10W60 FS||2.0 L MIN API SG|
|MOTO GUZZI||V7 SPORT /SPECIAL||20W50||3.0 – 3.5 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V75||2.5 L|
|MOTO GUZZI||V75 TARGA||10W40||2.0 L API SF|
|MOTO GUZZI||V85 TT||10W60||1.8 L API SG|
|MOTO GUZZI||V9 BOBBER (EURO 4)|
|MOTO GUZZI||V9 ROAMER (EURO 4)|
Recommended Motorcycle Engine Oils
The table below shows all the different engine oils available for four-stroke motorcycle engines. We’ve listed them by viscosity. Then we’ve listed the best motorcycle engine oil available in each viscosity, from Mineral-based engine oils to Semi-Synthetic, right up to Fully Synthetic and even top-quality ester-based oils.
The table has been compiled from owner reviews and ratings and manufacturer-specified oil, where applicable.
Fully Synthetic. Ester-based oil to ensure maximum power output of the engine without compromising the reliability and the wear. Used by Factory race teams. Ideal for wet clutches. Quality doesn’t come cheap.
Fully Synthetic. For racing and performance motorcycles where excellence is the only option. Specially researched synthetic esters provide exceptional film strength and outstanding surface protection from start-up to maximum output..
Fully Synthetic. This ultra high performance 4-stroke motorcycle engine oil offers improved fuel economy and engine performance, rapid oil circulation on cold start, excellent lubrication under all conditions, and superior wet clutch performance.
Semi-Synthetic. Particularly suitable for tuned engines or those used in hot climates. Utilising an ester base. Ensures rapid oil circulation on a cold start, excellent lubrication under all conditions, and superior wet clutch performance. API SL, & JASO MA2.
Fully Synthetic. One of the best fully-synthetic motorcycle engine oils. Ester-based oil, which is of the highest quality. Very high film strength protects the engine and gearbox. Meets JASO MA. Ideal for oil immersed clutches. Compatible with catalytic converters.
Semi-Synthetic. A high-quality part-synthetic oil at a good price. Castrol’s 10W-40 is suitable for high-performance bikes including highly stressed multi-cylinder engines.
Mineral Based. A good quality mineral oil that provides protection under regular riding conditions. Especially suitable for small capacity engines and commuters.
Fully Synthetic. Suitable for modern high-performance motorcycle engines where API or JASO specifications are recommended. Excellent shear stability.
Fully Synthetic. Elf’s Moto4 is designed for high-performance four-stroke engines. Its additives improve viscosity rating and thicken the oil at high temperatures, whilst maintaining its fluidity at low temperatures.
Fully Synthetic. Ultimate performance fully synthetic motorcycle oil for all high demanding 4 stroke engines including racing engines. Offers ultimate lubrication at peak performance levels. Outstanding shear stability and ageing resistance, low evaporation tendency.
Semi-Synthetic. Designed for the latest generation European and Japanese motorcycles. 15W-50 is well suited for large air-cooled single, twins and high mileage engines that require good high-temperature viscosity and oil consumption control.
Semi Synthetic. Four stroke engine oil exceeds the requirements of the leading manufacturers. Offering excellent high mileage engine protection.
Fully Synthetic. 100% synthetic 4-Stroke lubricant with Ester technology. Engineered for 2 cylinder engines and meets Harley Davidson spec. Meets JASO MA2 specifications for optimal wet clutch performance and suitable for catalytic converters.
Mineral based. Mineral oil based 4-stroke engine oil for all Harley Davidson & Metric V-Twin Cruisers. Provides protection over a wide range of operating conditions. Promotes a high level of engine cleanliness.
Motorcycle Engine Oil FAQ
Can I use car engine oil in my motorcycle?
This can be risky. Even though you can and will find car oil with the same viscosity ratings (i.e. 10w40) as for motorcycle engines, the additives in the oil will be different. Most cars use a separate gearbox oil and most cars have a dry clutch. So a car oil could make your clutch slip or knacker your gearbox. If you're buying a bike that's been run on car oil, beware!
Does engine oil have an expiry date?
Engine oils have an expiry date which means the performance levels can no longer be guaranteed. However if your oil hasn't been opened, it'll take years and years for it to degrade. If your oil has been opened and is a couple of years out of date, it'll most likely be absolutely fine. However, if you've already opened it and it's 5 years out of date you'll be better off buying fresh oil as the additives in the oil may have oxidised and lost their qualities.
What are the most critical areas where the oil flows?
For a motorcycle engine, the critical engine areas are the piston assembly, bearings and valve train. The engine oill also lubricates the clutch (but not if your motorcycle has a dry clutch) and your motorcycle's gearbox.
What does my oil filter do and do I need to replace it?
The oil filter traps foreign particles and debris that are introduced into the oil by normal riding. These particles can be anything from carbon deposits to small metal particles from your motorcycle's engine. These particles can lead to engine damage, while a blocked filter may lead to oil starvation and ultimately engine failure. An oil filter costs just a few pounds, so it makes sense to change this every time you do an oil change.
What is the difference between a mineral, semi-synthetic, and full-synthetic engine oil?
Mineral oils are refined from petroleum, but even mineral oils contain some synthetic compounds or additives to improve them. Semi-synthetic oils are a blend of mineral and synthetic oils. They have definite improvements over pure mineral oils. Semi-synthetics can contain “hydrocracked” bases. Hydrocracked oils are mineral oils that have been subjected to intense pressure and temperature to change the structure of the molecules, making the resultant oil more stable and resistant to evaporation at higher temperatures. Semi-synthetic oils don’t cost much more than mineral oils do, but offer advantages over the latter.
Why does a 2-stroke oil have to be mixed with fuel?
A 2-stroke engine is built and runs differently to a 4-stroke one. A 4-stroke engine keeps most of its oil in its crankcase and oil sump and recirculates this oil to lubricate the engine. With a 2-stroke engine, the process is somewhat different. Here, there is no oil sump as the crankcase deals with the compression and induction of the fuel/air mix. The only way, therefore, to provide oil to the engine for lubrication is by adding it to the fuel. As this oil is burnt with the fuel, it can’t be recirculated. A specific 2-stroke oil is needed as 4-stroke oil would leave damaging deposits behind when it burns.
Is any engine oil better than no engine oil?
Yes, but when it comes to motorcycles, the 'right' engine oil is better than 'any' engine oil!
Why do some engines burn oil?
Unfortunately, some types of engines just use more oil than others due to their design. Here, the burnt oil can leave damaging deposits behind, meaning these engines often need more top overhauls. However, if a touring engine uses more oil than is necessary, changing to a lighter grade of oil often solves the problem.
Can I top up my engine with a different type of oil?
As long as you don’t mix a 2-stroke oil with a 4-stroke oil, you can safely top your engine up with a different type of oil. You probably wouldn’t want to mix different grades, say, a 5W-30 synthetic with a 20W-50 mineral oil, but if you do, it likely wouldn’t do any harm.
Do I need to warm up my engine before riding?
The oil needs to be warm, but, even better, hot, especially when riding at speed. When cold oil is pumped into an engine, cavitation (bubbles of vacuum within the oil) is likely to occur. This, in essence, means that the engine does not receive enough oil for it to run optimally at speed. Warmer, and so thinner, oil ensures that the engine not only receives enough oil, but that all moving parts within it can work optimally. Ideally, use a 5W-40 or 10W-40 oil and ensure the engine warms up properly for a few km before speeding up.
Do I need to regularly change my oil?
If you tend to drive short distances with a low annual mileage, regular oil changes are vital, irrelevant of whether the minimum mileage for an oil change was reached or not. Water vapour and fuel tend to make their way into the oil, and, unless you drive long distances, they never have the chance to evaporate. This can cause damages like corrosion, gear tooth pitting, and ring and bore wear. Long-distance riders with a high annual mileage who use a high-quality oil can afford to be a little more relaxed on the oil changes.
What's the best type of oil to use in a road bike?
Your ideal choice of oil would be an ester semi-synthetic 10W-40 or a 10W-30 that is also shear-stable. The fact that the oil is shear-stable is more important than the fact that it is semi-synthetic. You are still better off choosing shear-stable mineral-based oil than a low-quality semi-synthetic one that isn’t shear-stable. Only for frequent long-distance riders would the cost of a full-synthetic oil be worth it, as it can help save on oil changes and fuel costs.
How does oil 'cling' onto the engine's internals?
Where there is high-speed rotation in the engine, e.g. with a plain bearing, the high speed draws a thick layer of oil between the two surfaces, like a wedge. Here, this oil supports and carries the load of these surfaces. As soon as the spinning stops, however, either due to the slowing down or stopping of the engine, this wedged oil gives way. Where no rotation occurs in an engine, oil cannot form this thick wedged layer to protect metal surfaces. Here, oil provides a thin protective film and often relies on anti-wear agents, detergents, and anti-oxidant chemicals to help protect from metal-to-metal contact.
Questions? Tips, Errors?
We work hard to keep our motorcycle oil chooser up to date but if you spot any errors or you can help us fill out any missing info, we’d love to hear from you. Likewise, if you have a question, just enter it in the comments box below and we’ll get back to you straight away. Thank you!